A Big Realization

I think I've figured out why I didn't like Notre Dame Cathedral. I went to Westminster Abbey today to do research for my dissertation. Part of a chapter will (hopefully) be about the Abbey, but I've been really trepidatious about braving the summer crowds so I can do my research. When one steps out of the tube stations that surround Big Ben, the Houses of Parliament, and the Abbey, one is immediately accosted by tour groups crowding the sidewalks, people taking photographs of themselves with Big Ben as a backdrop, and general rudeness that overtakes people when they need to see the coveted tourist locale that they have witnessed in countless postcards, paintings, and movies. Today, as I wandered towards Westminster Abbey, I realized that this part of London is incredibly beautiful, but I doubt it the bumbling tour groups noticed as they listened to their yelling guides waving their colored banners to keep all their ducks in a row (or roughly amoeba-shaped glob, rather).

I bought by ticket and walked up to information, ready for them to tell me that they didn't care I was working on my doctoral thesis and send me on my merry way. "Is it okay if I take notes while I'm here? I'm working on my thesis and I'd like to see Henry's chapel," I told the worn-out lady and the bursar who stood next to her--batting my eyes the whole while. Sadly, she told me that nobody gets to see the chapel at all. I think that she felt a little sorry when she saw my crestfallen face. I really was upset; I hadn't realized that the chapel was off limits.

Then the bursar chimed in and told me he'd take me! So I had my own personal tour of most of the king's tombs. Usually one is only allowed to walk along the outside of the tomb area and stare up at all of them, but I was able to get up close to all of them away from prying eyes. The bursar was great: we exchanged information about the tombs and he took me up the spiral staircase to Henry's chapel. If you're down below, you don't realize that there's another level at that point which houses a chapel. It was quiet and beautiful. The sun was just coming in the windows and reflected off the brass effigies. The bursar even let me take pictures!!!!! It's a big no-no in the cathedral, but I was able to snap away, even with people grumbling about it below. It was a magical, holy place in the middle of all the bustle. There was a perfect view down the nave of the church to the stained glass windows at the back. My favorite part was on the bottom level, where I was able to take a very close look at Henry's tomb. He has a wooden effigy that is breathtaking to see.

But my tour didn't end there! The bursar took me around the front of the big altar and let me look at the majestic golden altarpiece that covers the front of the church. It was brilliant. Amazing. As the bursar and I said goodbye, I wanted to hug him for my special morning. I spent the rest of my time there trying to sketch out what I was, much to the annoyance of all the people walking around me, but at that point, I was so happy, I didn't mind the tourists!